Himalayan Snow Valleys + white canvas, North Sikkim

Nov 17, 2011

North Sikkim - Yumthang Valley/Chomta Valley

Himalayan Snow Valleys - white canvas, new vision, new stride

The driver stops the car and turns to us: “the car won't pass from here – there have been too many snow-storms. If you guys want to see Yumthang, it's 8 km through the snow forest. Do you want to go?” On the other end, a hot spring awaits. So do the impossible cliffs of the 4.5 km high valley.

Some folks in our group are wearing sneakers. Not exactly snow wear. Of course, we'll go. Luckily, I'm in my Gore-texy faithful trekking boots. Unanimously, we file out and make our way through the winter paradise. “It's our Switzerland” our waiter-come-guide announces. As though the Himalayas needed to compete. On the way, someone is hit by a bright idea and a snowball....and we build a snow...woman. Ok, I did that bit. That is, womanized her – it only took 2 balls to do that.

After a while, I purposefully fall behind. I cannot see or hear the group. You know the way snow swallows some sounds and amplifies the others? I love the taste of this white, windless tranquility and want to savour it for as long as I can. The forest ends. An enormous valley hugging a riverbed opens up before me. Half-moon bridges go over the river. There is not a soul in sight. I'm one purple dot on this immense white canvas stretched between the gray cliffs. There's no word for it. Idyllic? It comes short.

In the distance, I see a small hut clinging precariously to a cliff. Heeeey! - someone is calling to me. I climb up and find our group huddled around a fire. The ubiquitous local delicacy – Ramen noodles – is simmering on the stove. Hot chai is on offering. I sip mine, hypnotised by the fire. Is there anything more delightful than hot chai by a fire after a long stroll in the snow? Fine, maybe one thing. But that's it ;o)

Fueled up, we find that the second little house is just a roof over a hot spring “pool” [2 m x 2 m]. Encouraged by the recent warmth, the Japanese woman and I “hatch” from the cabbage of our layers and jump in. The boys soon join us. The gentle Slovenian, Miha, dares us all to roll in the snow and leads by example. How can I resist the fun – so the 3 crazy pale faces roll out and do snow angels in the snow – to the amazed looks of the locals. Back and forth we go. Oooooh, I love hot springs! They set the brain right.

The 8 km stroll back is way warmer after this. In the evening we sit around the cozy kitchen and drink Beherovka – that medicinal ambrosia of the Gods made for the weather like this – that Miha brought all the way from Slovenia [I don't drink unless it's cold – I still stand by that]. And we dry our boots like kebabs, turning them around periodically. The precious real estate around the fire is all taken up by them – steaming from their soles.

Miha from Slovenia

Folks in our North Sikkim group

It's by the end of this evening, as I examine my slightly melted trusty Asolos that I discovery that they are hungry. “Asking for cereal,” as they'd say in Russia. The sole got unhinged. I'm relieved. Can you believe that luck? It's just before we head back to Gangtok and not on my way around the Everest that they fall apart. I not only have a chance to get new ones but to wear them for a bit before I'm on the beautiful Himalayan trail.

Magically, the shop across the street from my hotel in Gangtok has the best boots I've ever seen on offer. Mammut, Swiss-made – they even look beautiful! I step into them and I'm in love at the first step.

As I walk the hilly streets in them, it occurs to me that it's the first time on this journey that I'm actually comfortable walking. My knees and ankles sing with joy at last. Wow! I had no idea how uncomfortable I was before until I actually had a perfect pair of boots on. I can go anywhere in these! It's unreal just how much difference a thing like comfy boots makes when it's one of the 2 pairs of footwear you possess [one is on you and the other is sandals]! I'm ecstatic and celebrating that day. The next day I leave my old Asolos on a forest trail with a grateful goodbye.

So I returned to Darjeeling much upgraded – with a new stride and a new vision. Once again, I reflected just how much these little things matter when all of one's worldly possessions fit in one backpack and every little thing in that pack is getting used and relied upon. Anything that is not getting used is quickly left behind. And anything that breaks needs a quick replacement. If something doesn't work – it leaves a chronic wear-and-tear on the body or soul.